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1976, Paris, and wine critic Steven Spurrier gathers some of the most eminent names from the world of French wine to a blind tasting of wines, comparing the best that California has to offer with the best of French. This tasting which has become known as The Judgement of Paris rocked the wine world as a Californian Cabernet beat off the best that Bordeaux could throw at them.
What is less well known is that a white tasting took place at the same time, of Californian Chardonnay and white Burgundy in which Chateau Montelena from Napa Valley won.
Until now, the wines of Montelena have been hard to find in the UK, however Corkr.com have just secured a small parcel of their wines for shipping to the UK, and any serious wine lover should get serious about considering getting hold of some. In addition to their very serious Chardonnay 217.99 for 12 are two wonderful Cabernets to get hold of, the Estate Cabernet 275.99 for 6 and the Napa Valley Cabernet 245.99 for 12. Clearly these wines are not cheap, but with Robert Parker giving them between 89 and 93 points each they are really good wines.
Chateau Montelena was founded in 1882 and is one of the oldest wine estates in California, with a Chateau that would look more in place in Tuscany than the US, and is famous for producing old style wines with traditional values rather than the more fruit forwards styles adopted by many modern wineries. That is both the charm and the problem for the wines. On one hand they can lack mass market appeal, but on the other they are supremely made in a delicate European style that demands food to be seen at its best.
The Chardonnay is good old fashioned Californian Chardonnay, with a little use of oak and fresh lively acidity this is a wine that not only shows off lovely fruit character but also goes to show that it is possible to make wines with real sensitivity and finesse. Put in a line up with good quality Burgundy and this would be hard to spot - I am not sure that I would try it against the very best possible but at around 20 pounds you would be hard pressed to find anything much better.
The Napa Valley Cabernet is a delicate Cabernet with blackcurrant and eucalyptus flavours with firm tannins that will really reward being kept for a couple of years before being drunk, at present it lacks a little charm but the potential is certainly there to develop into something better, but for me I would prefer to see a little more fruit in a wine that is not meant for long term ageing.
The Estate Cabernet is a serious step up into top quality Napa Cabernet that shows a little austerity and some great fruit touches and for my money will go on for another 10-15 years and certainly wants 5 before it really comes into its own. Drinking it right now is not a hardship, but neither do you feel like you are drinking nearly 50 pounds worth of wine. On the other hand you would never choose to drink a four year old classed growth from Bordeaux, so why do the same to a Californian Cabernet designed to age in the same way? My tip would be to buy 6 bottles and then pop it somewhere safe, forget about it for 10 years or so and come back and find out just how good it is - go on I dare you!